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Florence (Firenze in Italian) is the capital of the region
of Tuscany, on Italy's northwest coast. Florence is a small city, located
in the Arno River valley, and surrounded by olive-planted hills on the
north and south. It extends west and slightly east along the Arno valley
with suburbs and light industry. The centro storico (historic center),
where visitors spend most of their time, is a tight tangle of medieval
streets and piazze (squares). Most of Florence, and the majority of the
tourist sites, lie north of the river, with a vintage artisan's working-class
neighborhood wedged in between the Arno and the hills on the south side.
The center is encircled by a traffic ring of wide boulevards, known as
the Viali, that were created in the late 1800s by tearing down the city's
medieval walls. Since the 14th century the cultural heart of the city
has been the Piazza della Signoria with the Palazzo Vecchio (Town Hall),
the Uffizi Gallery and a large number of publicly displayed world famous
sculptures.
Italy's early history was that of as a group of city-states constantly
fighting each other. In the Renaissance period Florence was one of the
most powerful and influential of those states. The wealthy and powerful
de' Medici family ruled the city almost continuously from 1434 to 1743
and had a great influence on the architecture and arts. They built an
abundance of palaces all over the city and commissioned such artists as
Michelangelo to design and decorate these and other buildings.
Florence is called the capital of arts. From the 13th to the 16th century
it was a seemingly endless source of creative masterpieces and Italian
genius. Both Dante and Michelangelo were born there. Boccaccio wrote his
'Decameron' in Florence. The Italian Renaissance (Europe's richest cultural
period ) began in Florence when the artist Brunelleschi finished the Duomo,
the cathedral, with the huge dome.
Florence is also a city of incomparable indoor pleasures. Its chapels,
galleries and museums are an inexhaustible treasure, capturing the complex,
often elusive spirit of the Renaissance more fully than any other place
in the country.
Florence became the center of artistic patronage in Italy under the Medici
family, whose members made their fortunes in banking and ruled the city
as an independent state for almost three centuries. Lorenzo de' Medici,
known as "Il Magnifico" held fiercely onto Florentine independence
in the face of papal resentment. Later, in the late eighteenth century,
Florence fell under Austrian and then French rule, and in the nineteenth
century was for a short time the capital of the kingdom of Italy. The
story of Florence since then has been less colorful. The city survived
bombing by the Nazis as they retreated during the second World War, and
a major flood in 1966. Through it all, the monuments and paintings of
the city's Renaissance years were preserved and are the basis of its survival.
Florence is a walking city. Visitors can take a leisurely stroll between
the two most often visited sights, the Duomo and the Uffizi, in less than
five minutes. The walk from the most northerly point, San Marco with its
Fra' Angelico frescoes and the Accademia with Michelangelo's David, to
the most southerly, the Pitti Palace across the Arno, should take no more
than 30 minutes. From Santa Maria Novella rail station across town to
Santa Croce is an easy 20 to 30 minute walk.
Most of the streets were designed to handle the moderate pedestrian traffic
and occasional horse-drawn cart of a medieval city. Sidewalks, where they
exist, are narrow; often less than two feet wide. Though much of the centro
storico is supposedly closed to traffic, taxis, residents with parking
permits, people without permits who drive there anyway, and the endless
stream of noisy motorini (mopeds) still enter, drive and park.
Planning is extremely important when visiting Florence. Most visitors
come to the city with a common purpose: to spend hours viewing and absorbing
the beauty and wonder of Florentine works of art and architecture. However,
trying to pack too much into a single, brief visit can result in cultural
overload. Florence is not the choice of those seeking a seaside resort
or a holiday with small children. Older children, well disciplined, and
well prepared, can benefit from accompanying their parents on a tour of
the museums, palaces, and churches, but interest for most youngsters will
rapidly wane in the crush of crowds and intense heat of the small city.
Adult tempers will fray as well. Boboli Gardens can provide a respite
from the heat and activity, but the landscaped grounds of the Pitti Palace
are designed to rest the eyes and delight the imagination. It is not primarily
a playground.
Festivals, shopping, feasts for the senses along every street, in every
square, and in every museum: these are the gifts Florence offers to the
visitor.
Tuscany is known for its fine culinary traditions - in particular, its
olive oil, meat dishes and classic Chianti. Restaurants of every type,
offering bills of fare ranging from fast food to world-class cuisine abound,
and there are clusters of little cafés in every neighborhood. Tuscan
food is simple and excellent with a variety of bean dishes, soups, pork
dishes, grilled meats and vegetables. Fine Tuscan wines accompany the
meal.
The Tuscan economy is rooted in craft traditions. The top designers of
Milan use the textile factories of Florence for the execution of their
designs. Gold working has been perfected over the centuries in workshops
near the Ponte Vecchio, where jewelry is produced that is sold throughout
Europe. Visitors will find a beautiful assortment of leather goods, including
shoes, as well. Marbled paper, handmade perfumes and toiletries, decorative
ceramic pieces, and sculpture are also locally produced.
When planning a visit to Tuscany, put its small geographical size in
perspective, and allow time to savor its infinite possibilities.
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